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After destroying the rear Dunlop Arrowmax (4800km life span) on the Snowy ride it was time to put new boots on the XT12. The problem was due to my financial circumstances I had to think budget, and this is where the Shinko's came in. At $330AUD a pair fitted (loose wheels) at MCA nothing was going to beat the price.
The Shinko is a 20% dirt tyre and looks great on the XT12. I was looking for a more road oriented tyre and think that 30% Dirt / 70% Road was a good compromise for the riding I am going to do. The only thing I heard which concerned me was the Shinko may not have the same lifespan as its more expensive rivals but this we shall find out first hand (odo reading now 35,820km)
- Front = 110/80R 19 (33psi)
- Rear = 150/70R 17 (36psi or 42psi with load over 90kg)
Other road oriented tyres that I will try next are:
- michelin anakee 3: http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/michelin-anakee-3-tires
- metzeler tourance: http://www.revzilla.com/product/metzeler-tourance-rear-tire
- Continental TKC70: http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/continental-tkc-70-tires
Notes for removing the wheels off the XT12:
- You will need a "special 19mm tool" / nut to insert into the front and rear axles in order to remove them (the front being the most problematic) - I got a nut used to join two threaded bolts together at $3 AUD from a hardware (Bunnings) - See Pictures
- Remove the ABS sensor from both wheels before removing the wheels - NO magnetic tools near the sensor and wheels were the ABS stuff lives!!
Note the order in which things are removed and where the components fit in so you can put them back correctly!! It's also a good time to inspect the brakes etc while things are apart! With the bike on center stand:
- Front: - remove the brakes > ABS Sensor > loosen the 2 x pinch bolts > put a stand under the forks and lift the wheel > use the 19mm "special tool" to loosen and remove the axle > remove the wheel
- Rear: - remove the ABS sensor > bolt holding the brake caliper to the torque bar > loosen the axle bolt > loosen the pinch bolt > remove the axel > move the brake caliper and torque bar out the way > remove the wheel
Reassemble in reverse order using new grease after cleaning the old grease off. Before riding check all the components are in place, torqued correctly, wheels move freely with no play, and the brakes work.
Tip: I suggest when putting back the rear wheel and trying to align the splines, loosely install the rear axle and turn the wheel on the axle until the splines align...
Shinko 705 Update 03/02/2018
The Shinko rear is now a goner, at 7,358km of hard road riding with a good smattering of graded dirt roads (Current ODO 43,178km). Lasted longer than I thought it would - See pictures.
The tyre performed well overall and only ever got vague on the road while pushing hard on the twisties on hot days... Overall good value for money and at the price I would put them on again if I did not get the Heidenau K60 Scout which will be in my next post as I also need some new wheel bearings it seems.
BTW the Shinko 705 front is still going strong and would last the normal two x backs, I will see how it runs with the Scout K60 on a trip next weekend.
Parts Worked On:
- Front Wheel, Rear Wheel